Sunday, October 7, 2012

Okayama: A Place to Belong, Part One



Hello! This is Sam, calling in from the Japanese countryside!
Today, KCJS went on the annual Okayama trip. After a somewhat long drive to the station (my host dad took a wrong turn and we got stuck in traffic), I commuted to Doshisha, as usual. We had a brief meeting regarding our trip, then headed for the bus. The only thing of note during the drive was the interesting combini we stopped at along the way - it had oppai pudding. You know what that is? It’s two cups of pudding “arranged” to look like breasts. Only in Japan.

When we reached Okayama, we wearily dismounted the bus, and were immediately whisked off to a conference room where a crowd of Japanese people were waiting for us. There was a TV camera and everything. We all sat down, and waited for it to begin. Yotsukura-sensei gave a fairly high-level speech in Japanese, although she seemed really nervous. She was followed by speeches by local officials, who used bigger words and were less understandable. Then came the moment I had been dreading. Along with five other KCJS students, we presented a little speech as well; as representatives of KCJS, we had to thank the group for hosting us again this year. I messed up. After we were seated, they had all the KCJS students introduce themselves. And I messed up again. Our host families also introduced themselves – at least one of my friends got cute sisters. Maybe a little jealous? My host father was dressed In a yellow polo and wearing shades, a very non-Japanese look. When we finally got to meet, he gave me a strong handshake, and used some English to make me feel welcome. I tried my best not to show my nervousness as I introduced myself yet again. He told me his name was Shingo, but that I should just call him Ringo. Like, the Japanese word for “apple”. And he has an awesome car - when he said he likes race cars, he doesn't mean watching. He actually races cars. Just as we started to talk though, we were rushed out, along with three other students, to go to a smaller, local government office in Satosho, the city we were staying in.

When we reached the city office, we were led to one of the cushiest rooms I've ever been in, where again cameras were set up and official looking people were waiting. The mayor came out and greeted us personally, delivering a speech in heavy-duty Japanese. We all got cellphone straps and little badges of the town mascot. They also had us all take a photo together. Afterwards, one of the TV cameramen came over and interviewed me. I only made a huge fool of myself; I didn’t catch one of the questions he asked, and someone off-screen started talking to me. I finally stuttered out something about wanting to eat chestnuts. I really hope they edit.

The first activity in Okayama was to make pottery. Apparently, one of the six famous Japanese pottery styles is based in Okayama, and we were to learn a little about it today. My host father drives me over to the technical school where the pottery class was being help. On the way, all the students walking home from school turned their heads to stare at me. A couple of girls waved at me, and when I waved back they cheered like I was some kind of celebrity. I guess I’m big in the countryside.

Ringo had some stuff to do; he works part time to pay for his expensive hobbies. So we parted ways, and I got onto a bus with the rest of the KCJS kids. It took us to a pottery studio, where an old sensei explained about the style of pottery and why it’s famous. But he used some really technical lingo, and I don’t think anyone understood more than three or four words per sentence. But when he finished, we got a much simpler explaination: we would split into two groups, one to make stuff out of clay, and the other to decorate. I wanted to make a tea bowl, since I'm a fan of chanoyu, Japanese tea ceremony. And so make that tea bowl I did, with the help of the teacher. Actually, she did 75% of the work. But it came out well...until I nicked the side with string while removing the bowl from the wheel. Funny thing is, everyone (except Ken, Yotsukura-sensei’s son) didn’t know what to make, so they also made bowls. Ken made a little sake jug.

Once we finished and cleaned up, we walked back to the school. The teachers with us didn’t know the way, and we actually stopped at an intersection, unsure of which was to proceed. Once we made it back to the school, we waited for our host families to pick us up. I had seen a bunch of smoke coming from the fields on the way over, and I asked one of the teachers what it was coming from. Turns out, the farmers burn off grass to keep it from stealing the crops’ nutrients. When Ringo showed up, everyone was super impressed with his awesome car. It’s some sort of sporty convertible race car. It’s really loud, by the way. Before we headed home, he wanted to show me the ocean. And so we drove (okay, he sped) through the beautiful countryside, through the mountains, until we reached the sea. On the way, he showed off his awesome driving skills, by doing several 360˚ turns in the middle of an intersection O_O

Anyway, the ocean. We got there just in time for the sunset, which would have been stunning if it wasn't cloudy. Still, it was beautiful and peaceful. Ringo had a smoke while I relaxed in the beauty of nature. The world just felt at peace for a while.

We went back over the mountains to his house. That’s when I met the family. It's a big one – there’s Ringo, his wife (Satsuki), their three daughters (Rina, Risa, and Rika), two of whom are married (Ken and Norio), and then their two kids (Ayumu and Rui), and the baby (Yuna). I spent most of the evening talking with them, really enjoying being around so many people. It was just such a welcome change from my relatively boring life in Joyo-shi. We had a maki sushi party for dinner, with a giant plate chicken karaage on the side. Risa is an amazing cook! I haven't eaten this well since I was staying with the Fujiwaras, to be perfectly honest. When Satsuki got home, I introduced myself once again. I had just mentioned that I’ve been taking kyudo lessons (they asked me what I have been doing outside of classes); when she heard, she looked me in the eyes and asked me if I wanted to do kyudo that night (which I did). She picked up the phone, made a call, and then rushed me away in the car.

This was my first time in a dojo besides Kawaguchi sensei's. I was nervous, and yet really excited. I was introduced to the sensei, who seemed strict yet kind, just like my own sensei. Then we all sat down to watch. Today of all days was a special event, one that only happens once a month, called tsukimi shakai, or “moon viewing kyudo”. It's a special event only done at this dojo, but is decently famous among those in the know. This evening’s theme was “full moon obscured by clouds”, represented by little trees placed between the archer and the target. After a beautiful ritual, where a male practitioner ritualistically readied his bow and nailed the target dead center, the archers all lined up and fired at special gold targets, representing the full moon. It was amazing to watch, and I felt incredibly lucky to have gotten to see it. 

After we returned, I met the last sister, Rina. We stayed up talking for a long while, the three sisters, their parents, and I. I took a bath, although I can only hope I did so in the proper way. My Japanese bath etiquette is a little lacking. Despite some not so encouraging news from Nick, I had a fantastic night here in Okayama. Tomorrow seems to be a really busy day too: aside from karate and going to a matsuri, Satsuki has scheduled some sort of harvest festival in the morning, and then a tea ceremony. Any worries I had about coming to the countryside are gone; I'm so glad I came.

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